Airports

I love airports. It is good thing that I do. I suspect that I have crossed the Atlantic 75 times in the last fifteen years. Not proud of the carbon load I have put into the atmosphere but I will rationalize to say that most of those trips were either to do some teaching in post-war Bosnia or contribute to development in one way or another in East Africa.

This morning at 6 am I find myself in Heathrow in London. This complex is huge. I understand that there are 85,000 people who work here in one capacity or another. And yet the place seems deserted at this hour. I did the walk from one terminal area to another through tunnels and halls and on moving sidewalks that were gleaming clean. I was the only one at the Terminal 2 Security.

Terminal 2 Heathrow.

Terminal 2 Heathrow.

It is a far different world than the one I have been visiting for the past three weeks.

No line up for security check. At 6 am. I was the only one!

No line up for security check. At 6 am. I was the only one!

 

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No line up at immigration at 6 am!

No line up at immigration at 6 am!

 

 

Heading northward.

I start the 35 hour trip home this evening. Going from 30 degrees C to -10. I may look a little dazed if you see me on the street in Kingston in the next few days – Jet lag, season lag, culture shock. There is always more of an adjustment coming home than when I arrive here.

This is where I have called home for the past three weeks. I have, not once, shut my patio door, day or night. Have had the gentle and sometimes not so gentle slosh of the waves from Lake Victoria to lull me to sleep and the cries of eagles, hammercops and ibises to wake me up in the mornings.image

I have had a beer watching the sun set over Mfangano Island before my dinner every evening but one when I was staying at Dan’s family’s homestead away from the lake.

This brings me to good news for my Canadian friends. I have been watching the sun slowly inch northward over the three weeks. The two photos below show its progress northward. Here’s hoping it is bringing some of this warmth to Canada eventually. I just wanted you to know it is on its way!

 

Sunset on January 22

Sunset on January 22

 

Sunset FEBRUARY 10. It is on its way to you, Canada.

Sunset FEBRUARY 10. It is on its way to you, Canada.

 

The boats in front of the ICIPE station are always anchored there. In fact, if you look for Mbita Point on Google Maps and get the satellite view, you can see them from space!

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While I was writing this post I heard a rustle outside my door  and looked up to see this 3 ft long monitor lizard who had come to say goodbye.  The first time I saw one of these I thought I was hallucinating.

While I was writing this post I heard a rustle outside my door and looked up to see this 3 ft long monitor lizard who had come to say goodbye. The first time I saw one of these I thought I was hallucinating.

 

 

 

 

 

Wildlife

A safari to Africa usually includes a visit to a game park or two to witness the incredible biodiversity of the wildlife here.

I have done that several time. This visit has been about people. I have been to 21 different schools, clinics and community organizations during the three weeks I have been here.

The only wildlife I have to share are birds and butterflies and cows on the road. The odd monitor lizard scurried away from me but too quickly to get a photo.

There were also a group of Evangelists from the southern U.S. here at a God Loves Kenya festival but I didn’t get photos of them. One of them was trying to get me to go to a parents and children camp somewhere in Northern California. I told him my “children” were all about 40 with families of their own. “How about a couples camp then?” he asked. Just to see what he would say, I asked if they include same-sex couples. You might imagine the look on his face and his response makes a longer story than I can relate here. What fun.

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Piki piki all the way home

Tonight I rode on the back of a piki piki (motorcycle taxi)to Rusinga Island for a “Happy Hour” and chat with friends. On the way back to the Guest House where I was staying, the sun was setting over Mfangano Island. Nice breeze. New meaning to waiting till the cows come home. They seemed to be coming home too! Enjoy the ride.

Elementary School visits

In the past few days I have visited many elementary schools in rural Kenya. Most are overcrowded and in need.

If a family has money or are in an urban centre, there are private schools that may provide a reasonable teacher-student ratio, clean surroundings and teachers that are not well paid but at least can eke out a living teaching school.

This classroom in a Government-funded school is for about 60 kids. They sit on the floor.

This classroom in a Government-funded school is for about 60 kids. They sit on the floor.

Unfortunately that is not the case in many rural schools, particularly those in the public system. The government-funded schools may have 60-80 students per classroom. Often the infrastructure is quite simply deplorable.

Some classes at this school are held outside. It is better than the classroom that is hot and dirty and crowded.

Some classes at this school are held outside. It is better than the classroom that is hot and dirty and crowded.

Classrooms are in poor repair. Latrines are full or dirty or both. There is little access to clean drinking water and classes are not well ventilated, crowded and hot. Teachers are poorly “motivated” by very low salaries. There is a general lack of supplies, text books, even syllabus books for the teachers.

 

These pupils are being taught in a CanAssist-funded school. Class sizes are manageable, the students have desks. The classroom is rudimentary but clean and the kids receive good teaching.

These pupils are being taught in a CanAssist-funded school. Class sizes are manageable, the students have desks. The classroom is rudimentary but clean and the kids receive good teaching.

Privately run schools do better. The children are in smaller classes but the teachers are even more poorly paid, often by contributions from the parents. In one privately operated school I visited the fee for the 40% who can afford it is 600 Kenyan Shillings ($6.50 US) a month. Another 30% pay half and an even more vulnerable 30% pay nothing. I challenge you to run a school including supplies and salaries for 120 children on $450 a month.

This is a classroom constructed by CanAssist in 2012. The school still lacks complete furnishings for these classes.

This is a classroom constructed by CanAssist in 2012. The school still lacks complete furnishings for these classes.

Through CanAssist we have attempted to help several elementary schools, private and public by constructing classrooms, providing furnishings, latrines and water. Today I bought a few text books for one of the schools and will buy more next week.

These kids need help. There are so many of them and their government is stretched to provide only rudimentary support. Those in rural areas go unattended. It is sad.

The children and teachers are grateful for even modest contributions to help them continue. Sometimes it is frustrating but we will continue thorough the CanAssist African Relief Trust to attempt to improve educational opportunities for as many East African children as we can. Would you like to help?

Instant recall

This is my 14th trip to Kenya since 2003. On my first visit I would never have imagined that I would return so often. Between visits there are things that get shelved in the back of my mind but quickly come back when I return. Anyone who has traveled here will relate and if you have not visited East Africa here is a taste of what I hope you get to experience some time.

Eating pineapple every day, every meal. Pineapple that was picked yesterday and actually tastes like pineapple.

Sitting in the dark in my room at night so not to attract the little lake flies that are everywhere but drawn to the light.

Being the only mzungu on the Main Street and not realizing it until someone says “good morning white man” or a woman shakes your hand and then scampers away to yell to a friend “I just greeted a mzungu”.

Piki piki motorcycle drivers who want to take you anywhere, everywhere.

Hearing the occasional hippo grunt in the lake just in front of my room.

Incredible sunsets every night.

imageWaking up to the sound of birds outside my room. Seeing fish Eagles along the shore of the lake every day.

Sleeping under a bed net and remembering to take my meds every day because of the significant risk of malaria.

Kids wanting to pet my hairy arms.

Chapati.

Thinking I am getting a tan but finding that it all washes off I’m the shower.
Sleeping with the patio door beside my bed wide open and listening to the waves and the fishermen out on the lake at night.

imageStoney’s Tangawizi, a Coca Cola ginger soda I have only found here.

The occasional 3 ft long monitor lizard suddenly scurrying out of my way through the long grass.

 

imageKids squealing with glee when I show them the photo I  just took of them.

Little drops of lizard poop in the bathroom but no sign of its owner.

No ice cream.

Frequent Electrical blackouts.

Remembering to brush my teeth with bottled water.

Donkeys and cows wandering unattended in the market, Main Street and even in the middle of a highway.

Feeling embarrassed and almost ashamed that I am often treated with special privilege only because I am white. Actually pink is more accurate after the equatorial sun exposure.

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Kanyala Little Stars – growing bigger with help from Canada

It is always a treat to visit the Kanyala Little Stars School on Rusinga Island. I have been dropping in to this school for the past 8 years and it has been interesting to see it grow and prosper. The school was started by Benta Odihambo, a local widow and ex-teacher who poured her heart into trying to improve the education of vulnerable kids in the community.

For a long time, she struggled to make it work but in the past few years, with support from CanAssist and other individuals and organizations the school has grown to 290 students all the way from age 4 to Grade 8.

The newest addition of classrooms to Kanyala Little Stars school.  Still a bit of outside finishing to to but it is a sturdy and spacious building.

The newest addition of classrooms to Kanyala Little Stars school. Still a bit of outside finishing to to but it is a sturdy and spacious building.

This year we were pleased to provide funding for a building that houses two classrooms. Since the property is running out of space, provision was made with a strong base to eventually be able to move upward.

The school has had academic success with their grade eight students standing at the top of the local district and third out of ninety in the sub-county in standardized exams done to determine admission to secondary school.

Benta Odihambo's sons, Blasto and Samwel accept the donation from the St Mark's congregation in Barriefield to purchase sanitary pads for the older girls at the school.

Benta Odihambo’s sons, Blasto and Samwel accept the donation from the St Mark’s congregation in Barriefield to purchase sanitary pads for the older girls at the school.

The women of St Mark’s Church in Barriefield, just outside Kingston, have formed a special bond with Kanyala Little Stars and I was pleased bring money from these women to the school for purchase of sanitary pads for the older girls – a program that has dramatically improved attendance for these girls, one of whom topped the girls marks for the district.

I have missed having a visit with Mama Benta this year – she died unexpectedly in mid 2013, but the family continues to manage the school and attempts to keep the high standards.

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A visit to S.P.

Yesterday I paid a visit to the S.P. Geddes Early Childhood Development Centre near the fishing village of Kamin Oningo on the shore of Lake Victoria in Kenya. The school has been named after my late father who, through the CanAssist African Relief Trust, funded construction of classrooms, a latrine, water tank and fencing for the school.

imageDad’s name is emblazoned on the school gate and a Canadian flag flies proudly beside the Kenyan one in the school grounds.

In addition, when I visited the school two years ago there was a little fellow who they had named Stewart Geddes, in honour of my Dad. This child is now about 2 1/2 years old and wanders around the school like he owns it.

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When you ask him what his name is he replies “S.P”. Now this is particularly endearing to me since my mom always lovingly called my Dad “S.P.” I got to have a visit with him and even a cuddle when he fell asleep on my lap. Any parent/grandparent will know just how special this is.

 

 

 

image I also visited the community fishing village where CanAssist provided a latrine where before there was none. The Beach Management Unit Chairman reported that it was being used and maintained and that just the day before the Public Health Officer visited the community and commented how this was a grand health improvement.

I plan to return to the school next week. A Kingston family has asked me, on their behalf to set up a small feeding program at the school to set up better nutrition for the 120 kids who attend. I will work on that and hopefully have photos of the children enjoying a nutritious lunch later in my time here.

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Back home in Africa

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I first started to feel like I was back home in Africa when I got on the Kenya Airways plane in London and was greeted by polished, professional, friendly flight attendants, all dressed in bright red blazers. They are just so welcoming and gentle and I knew I was in good hands.

The new Kenya Airways 787 Dreamliner.

The new Kenya Airways 787 Dreamliner.

The flight was a special one, unbeknownst to me. When I arrived at the departure gate there was cake and champagne to celebrate the inaugural flight of a brand new Boeing 787 Dreamliner added to the Kenya Airways fleet. There were even two lions in the hold, being transported back to Africa from a circus in Germany. (You can read about it here – http://travel.aol.co.uk/2015/01/21/two-lions-rescued-cruel-circus-germany-moved-south-africa-born-free/)

After 35 hours of travel, like the lions, I needed some rescuing so I was excited and pleased to be met at the Kisumu Airport by Mary Etuku, the manager of the ICIPE Guest House where I will stay for three weeks.

After a brief stop to get my mobile phone working properly, we drove to Mbita, about 2 1/2 hours from Kisumu.

I had come to Kenya to visit but also to check on some of the projects we have been doing in the last year and realized as we bumped along that we would pass one of our school projects near Kendu Bay. Our driver, Kennedy , kept his eyes peeled and found the sign for Kamser Primary School so we did a U-turn and headed back , unannounced.

Desks at the Kamser Elementary school provide in 2014 by CanAssist.

Desks at the Kamser Elementary school provide in 2014 by CanAssist.

The students were away from the school on their lunch break but three teachers sat under a tree marking notebooks. They took me into the classrooms to show me the desks that CanAssist had funded last year. This was a bit of a win-win since the desks, rudimentary but functional, we’re all made by local carpenters, thereby providing some modest local employment as well as providing the desks for the students. CanAssist had also provided a rainwater catchment tank. The teachers told me that after a good rain, the tank fills and can supply drinking water for the 500 pupils at the school for several weeks. Prior to getting the desks, the students, usually 60-80 per classroom, were sitting on the floor to learn.

I was delighted to start my 2015 Africa trip this way. My Jet lag dissolved. I was pleased to see how these teachers were appreciative of our support and their report of how this contribution to the school had made a difference to the well-being of the students.

After a good rain, this tank will be full and provide clean drinking water at the Kamser school for several weeks.

After a good rain, this tank will be full and provide clean drinking water at the Kamser school for several weeks.

I may have brought them something else – another blessing. About 10 last night there was a 2 hour torrential thunderstorm that dumped much-needed water on the community. There has been no rain for weeks. I smiled as I lay in bed, my screened patio door open, and listened to the rain pour down, knowing that around this community there were water tanks filling up.

The sunsets over Lake Victoria from the lawn in front of the ICIPE Guest House are wonderful.

The sunsets over Lake Victoria from the lawn in front of the ICIPE Guest House are wonderful.

 

It’s winter folks! Embrace it.

Today has been a beautiful, cold, crisp, clear wintery day in Kingston. Fresh white snow, blue skies, lots of sunshine. My friends in Africa would find this unbelievable. The sun is shining and it is minus 10 degrees. But if you bundle up and soak in the beauty it is truly incredible.

A few photos to prove it.

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