A new Gelateria … in Sassuolo, Italy

I am fortunate to have friends in Italy that welcome me to their home when I want to visit. I forget between visits what a good cooks Gloria and her mother, Maria, are.

Last year's Easter dinner for me was Gloria's home-made tortellini.

Last year’s Easter dinner for me was Gloria’s home-made tortellini.

The meals are a tasty variety of home-made dishes combined with good company. How lucky I am to enjoy this when I visit these wonderful friends.

My first meal on the evening I arrived last spring was one of my favourites – Pasta Genovese. This is a combination of pipe rigate pasta cooked with green beans and little chunks if potato and coated with a home-made pesto (olive oil, basil, pine nuts). Gloria chooses whatever pasta she cooks to match the sauce and it is always done to perfection. (Yes, Sherri Robinson, I have promised you the recipe for this and I have not forgotten).

Lunch à la Gloria.  Minestrone with Parmesan, Crusts of Italian Bread and some home-made red wine.

Lunch à la Gloria. Minestrone with Parmesan, Crusts of Italian Bread and some home-made red wine.

In the morning I was greeted with some espresso coffee. Maria and Silvano (Gloria’s parents) had arrived before I awoke and brought with them some home-made ricotta cheese from the farm. I had brought some maple syrup from Canada and so our breakfast great was a little bowl of ricotta cheese drizzled with maple syrup. Cheesecake without the cake.

For lunch we had minestrone soup sprinkled with Parmesan cheese and torn pieces of Italian bread. This was followed by chunks of spare ribs with fresh strawberries ( in season here since late February) for dessert. All meals except the breakfast are accompanied by sloshes of home-made wine poured into juice glasses. The wine has a slight effervescence to it and makes a delightful pop when the cork is released.

My friend Antonio has opened a gelateria in Sassuolo, Italy.

My friend Antonio has opened a gelateria in Sassuolo, Italy.

 

We also always make a trip to a Pizzeria in Sassuolo run by Luca and Gloria’s friend, Antonio.  He keeps serving us up pizzas that he makes up as he goes along until we are full.  I always get something with truffles on it, my favourite.  Well, this weekend, Luca sent me a photo of Antonio in his new Gelateria.   Now, after pasta (and wine) my favourite indulgence in Italy is gelato. Nothing like it.   Now that Antonio has his own Gelateria, I look forward to my next visit…dessert after one of his spectacular pizzas!

 

Celebrating Josephine …

I had a message from Uganda today that Josephine died last night.

 

Neighbour helps Josephine wash her hands before we have afternoon tea.

Neighbour helps Josephine wash her hands before we have afternoon tea.

Josephine Apoo was a woman whom I met last time I was in Uganda in the remote community of Olimai.   No one knew exactly how old she was but she was well over 100, perhaps as old as 110 – remarkable in a country where the average  life expectancy is about 60.  “She was here  when people ran around wearing no clothes at all,” I was told.   The stuff of which  early African stories are made.

 

Her neighbours were always looking out for her.  She would join them for tea or a bit of food, walking with a stick from her house. We shared tea and some mango one bright October afternoon in 2013.

The last time I saw her she was heading home into a  brisk wind. A storm was threatening.  She was pretty sturdy against the wind.  The image of her heading into the wind, over 100 years old, still being strong and independent is one that I will never forget.

My friend in Uganda asked that I join them in celebrating her life.  Worth celebrating, indeed.  My condolences to her many loved ones in Olimai. I feel privileged to have met her.

 

Josephine - October 2013.   Died March 18, 2014 at well over 100 years old. Olimai, Uganda.

Josephine – October 2013. Died March 18, 2014 at well over 100 years old. Olimai, Uganda.

A heartwarming letter and ongoing need …

It is always gratifying to feel that the work that we do through the CanAssist African Relief Trust is helping kids (and adults too) acquire education, health care and improved water and sanitation facilities.

Kya Elem SchoolThere are about 300 children at the Kyabazaala Elementary School in Uganda.  CanAssist has had an ongoing association with that school, helping them in many ways.   I have visited the school a few times and can vouch that they do need help. The classrooms are somewhat dilapidated and they have few resources. The teachers are paid a meagre salary by the government and often have to find places to live as their homes are not close by.  When we first went to the school, they were getting water from a dirty pond shared with animals, to make the one cup of maize gruel served to the kids at noon, often their only meal of the day.  Their toilets were abysmal.

IMG_20140912_134515CanAssist helped by repairing their one water tank that had been damaged and installing new toilets.  Other Canadian well-wishers visiting the school (including Hugh Langley, Ann Marie Van Raay and Elizabeth Muwonge) provided funding for cementing floors of some classrooms and between us all, we got electrical supply to the school.
Last year, the Mayer Institute in Hamilton, through CanAssist, funded installation of two water tanks at the School.  This will be a grand improvement to their access to water.

This week, I received an email with a scanned letter of appreciation for the various ways we have helped.  It was, indeed, heartwarming, to get this acknowledgement of our support and I want to share it with those who have, through donations to CanAssist, contributed to all the work we have done at the school.1

Our next project at the Kyabazaala Elementary School is to help them construct teachers’ quarters on the school property.  This will help them to acquire and retain qualified teachers since the school will be able to offer some modest accommodation to the teachers whose salaries are woefully low. The community has already been accumulating locally-made bricks for this venture. The total cost for this six-room teachers’ quarters will be approximately $7000 CAN.  CanAssist (and the school) will welcome any support dedicated to this project so we can start it soon.

 
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Big week for movies coming up

I am excited for the upcoming week. And not because of the Oscars on Monday night. I wasn’t nominated for anything, despite my dramatic background performance in Guillermo del Toro’s upcoming thriller Crimson Peak. My role in that one may be a bit like Where’s Waldo. But I did get paid $141 for getting up at 2am and doing several retakes while tending chickens in the market and hanging out between takes eating a hot dog with Mia Wasikowska.

No, my excitement is for two premieres happening later in the week. The first is an invitation-only first screening of Nightrunners -the Movie in Toronto on Thursday night. This thriller was shot in Kenya in early 2013 and I was lucky enough to be there for most of the shoot, filling a number of roles from looking for locations to putting on bandages and taping iv’s in place on the actors. I even had one scene in the movie with a few lines.

Unfortunately it ended up on the cutting room floor. The director claims that it was not due to my acting but maybe she was being kind. The scene was shot in a real hurry as rain clouds threatened and the light from sunset was quickly dying. The intent was that I carried the leading lady from the lake something like King Lear and Cordelia and then we had a bit of dialogue. Because the rain threatened to damage lights and equipment and the schedule was running tight, we did this scene three times with no rehearsal. Prior to each take the director poured a pail of water over me and we then managed through our lines in the sand on the beach, having never even read them together before. It was fun but we had to pack up quickly to save the equipment ( I was already drenched) and I have never seen the takes. I am wondering if they even filmed anything or if it was just fun dumping water on me as a joke.

A consolation could be that it is one more thing that I share with actor Chris Cooper. Last year with King’s Town Players I had the role of Charlie Aiken in August, Osage County, a part played by Cooper in the movie. I also learned that he had been totally cut from scenes in The Ring. Apparently he had a part early and late in the film but the test audiences wanted more of him and as a result his entire part was cut out. Maybe director Neilson was concerned that the Nighrunners audience would want more of Heinrich.

Nevertheless, the movie will premiere on Thursday night and I will be there to enjoy it. I can hardly wait for it to be shown to the folks in Kenya who had significant roles in it. Will it be worth a 35 hour trip both ways for the 2 hours of sharing this moment with my Kenyan friends? We will see.

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On Saturday night at the Kingston Canadian Film Festival, Leigh Ann Bellamy’s movie, Fault, will be shown for the first time at Memorial Hall. I was present for much of this movie shoot doing the still photography. I saw a rough cut and my right arm appears twice (unless Leigh Ann has cut those scenes, too). At least there were no pails of cold water for this one. It will be a real pleasure to enjoy this evening with my friends in the cast and crew. So proud of them for this production.

It has been great fun to be associated with these movies and watch them take shape. It has given me a totally new perspective when I see a film as I am more aware what goes into each take.

Who knows where these two films will end up being shown. Watch for them. And will you be able to find me in Crimson Peak? I doubt it, but I will know that I am there.

Airports

I love airports. It is good thing that I do. I suspect that I have crossed the Atlantic 75 times in the last fifteen years. Not proud of the carbon load I have put into the atmosphere but I will rationalize to say that most of those trips were either to do some teaching in post-war Bosnia or contribute to development in one way or another in East Africa.

This morning at 6 am I find myself in Heathrow in London. This complex is huge. I understand that there are 85,000 people who work here in one capacity or another. And yet the place seems deserted at this hour. I did the walk from one terminal area to another through tunnels and halls and on moving sidewalks that were gleaming clean. I was the only one at the Terminal 2 Security.

Terminal 2 Heathrow.

Terminal 2 Heathrow.

It is a far different world than the one I have been visiting for the past three weeks.

No line up for security check. At 6 am. I was the only one!

No line up for security check. At 6 am. I was the only one!

 

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No line up at immigration at 6 am!

No line up at immigration at 6 am!

 

 

Heading northward.

I start the 35 hour trip home this evening. Going from 30 degrees C to -10. I may look a little dazed if you see me on the street in Kingston in the next few days – Jet lag, season lag, culture shock. There is always more of an adjustment coming home than when I arrive here.

This is where I have called home for the past three weeks. I have, not once, shut my patio door, day or night. Have had the gentle and sometimes not so gentle slosh of the waves from Lake Victoria to lull me to sleep and the cries of eagles, hammercops and ibises to wake me up in the mornings.image

I have had a beer watching the sun set over Mfangano Island before my dinner every evening but one when I was staying at Dan’s family’s homestead away from the lake.

This brings me to good news for my Canadian friends. I have been watching the sun slowly inch northward over the three weeks. The two photos below show its progress northward. Here’s hoping it is bringing some of this warmth to Canada eventually. I just wanted you to know it is on its way!

 

Sunset on January 22

Sunset on January 22

 

Sunset FEBRUARY 10. It is on its way to you, Canada.

Sunset FEBRUARY 10. It is on its way to you, Canada.

 

The boats in front of the ICIPE station are always anchored there. In fact, if you look for Mbita Point on Google Maps and get the satellite view, you can see them from space!

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While I was writing this post I heard a rustle outside my door  and looked up to see this 3 ft long monitor lizard who had come to say goodbye.  The first time I saw one of these I thought I was hallucinating.

While I was writing this post I heard a rustle outside my door and looked up to see this 3 ft long monitor lizard who had come to say goodbye. The first time I saw one of these I thought I was hallucinating.

 

 

 

 

 

Wildlife

A safari to Africa usually includes a visit to a game park or two to witness the incredible biodiversity of the wildlife here.

I have done that several time. This visit has been about people. I have been to 21 different schools, clinics and community organizations during the three weeks I have been here.

The only wildlife I have to share are birds and butterflies and cows on the road. The odd monitor lizard scurried away from me but too quickly to get a photo.

There were also a group of Evangelists from the southern U.S. here at a God Loves Kenya festival but I didn’t get photos of them. One of them was trying to get me to go to a parents and children camp somewhere in Northern California. I told him my “children” were all about 40 with families of their own. “How about a couples camp then?” he asked. Just to see what he would say, I asked if they include same-sex couples. You might imagine the look on his face and his response makes a longer story than I can relate here. What fun.

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Piki piki all the way home

Tonight I rode on the back of a piki piki (motorcycle taxi)to Rusinga Island for a “Happy Hour” and chat with friends. On the way back to the Guest House where I was staying, the sun was setting over Mfangano Island. Nice breeze. New meaning to waiting till the cows come home. They seemed to be coming home too! Enjoy the ride.

Elementary School visits

In the past few days I have visited many elementary schools in rural Kenya. Most are overcrowded and in need.

If a family has money or are in an urban centre, there are private schools that may provide a reasonable teacher-student ratio, clean surroundings and teachers that are not well paid but at least can eke out a living teaching school.

This classroom in a Government-funded school is for about 60 kids. They sit on the floor.

This classroom in a Government-funded school is for about 60 kids. They sit on the floor.

Unfortunately that is not the case in many rural schools, particularly those in the public system. The government-funded schools may have 60-80 students per classroom. Often the infrastructure is quite simply deplorable.

Some classes at this school are held outside. It is better than the classroom that is hot and dirty and crowded.

Some classes at this school are held outside. It is better than the classroom that is hot and dirty and crowded.

Classrooms are in poor repair. Latrines are full or dirty or both. There is little access to clean drinking water and classes are not well ventilated, crowded and hot. Teachers are poorly “motivated” by very low salaries. There is a general lack of supplies, text books, even syllabus books for the teachers.

 

These pupils are being taught in a CanAssist-funded school. Class sizes are manageable, the students have desks. The classroom is rudimentary but clean and the kids receive good teaching.

These pupils are being taught in a CanAssist-funded school. Class sizes are manageable, the students have desks. The classroom is rudimentary but clean and the kids receive good teaching.

Privately run schools do better. The children are in smaller classes but the teachers are even more poorly paid, often by contributions from the parents. In one privately operated school I visited the fee for the 40% who can afford it is 600 Kenyan Shillings ($6.50 US) a month. Another 30% pay half and an even more vulnerable 30% pay nothing. I challenge you to run a school including supplies and salaries for 120 children on $450 a month.

This is a classroom constructed by CanAssist in 2012. The school still lacks complete furnishings for these classes.

This is a classroom constructed by CanAssist in 2012. The school still lacks complete furnishings for these classes.

Through CanAssist we have attempted to help several elementary schools, private and public by constructing classrooms, providing furnishings, latrines and water. Today I bought a few text books for one of the schools and will buy more next week.

These kids need help. There are so many of them and their government is stretched to provide only rudimentary support. Those in rural areas go unattended. It is sad.

The children and teachers are grateful for even modest contributions to help them continue. Sometimes it is frustrating but we will continue thorough the CanAssist African Relief Trust to attempt to improve educational opportunities for as many East African children as we can. Would you like to help?

Instant recall

This is my 14th trip to Kenya since 2003. On my first visit I would never have imagined that I would return so often. Between visits there are things that get shelved in the back of my mind but quickly come back when I return. Anyone who has traveled here will relate and if you have not visited East Africa here is a taste of what I hope you get to experience some time.

Eating pineapple every day, every meal. Pineapple that was picked yesterday and actually tastes like pineapple.

Sitting in the dark in my room at night so not to attract the little lake flies that are everywhere but drawn to the light.

Being the only mzungu on the Main Street and not realizing it until someone says “good morning white man” or a woman shakes your hand and then scampers away to yell to a friend “I just greeted a mzungu”.

Piki piki motorcycle drivers who want to take you anywhere, everywhere.

Hearing the occasional hippo grunt in the lake just in front of my room.

Incredible sunsets every night.

imageWaking up to the sound of birds outside my room. Seeing fish Eagles along the shore of the lake every day.

Sleeping under a bed net and remembering to take my meds every day because of the significant risk of malaria.

Kids wanting to pet my hairy arms.

Chapati.

Thinking I am getting a tan but finding that it all washes off I’m the shower.
Sleeping with the patio door beside my bed wide open and listening to the waves and the fishermen out on the lake at night.

imageStoney’s Tangawizi, a Coca Cola ginger soda I have only found here.

The occasional 3 ft long monitor lizard suddenly scurrying out of my way through the long grass.

 

imageKids squealing with glee when I show them the photo I  just took of them.

Little drops of lizard poop in the bathroom but no sign of its owner.

No ice cream.

Frequent Electrical blackouts.

Remembering to brush my teeth with bottled water.

Donkeys and cows wandering unattended in the market, Main Street and even in the middle of a highway.

Feeling embarrassed and almost ashamed that I am often treated with special privilege only because I am white. Actually pink is more accurate after the equatorial sun exposure.

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